Monday, April 26, 2010

Our last post was at the end of our first week here in Mindanao and it was amazing then how quickly the time was going by. It is now the end of our third week and so much has happened! We have seen and experienced so much it is hard to know where to start. Let us start by apologizing for not keeping up better with our posts… we will attempt now to catch you, our dear readers, up with what the team has been doing lately…. It may not be a daily account of our activities as as we had initially intended to give you but we hope it will give you a glimpse into what our experiences have been like….

Iligan City
Since Tuesday we have been in Iligan City, which in looking at a map of Mindanao is north of Lanao del Norte and Lanao del Sur. Iligan Bay borders the city to the west. It is the “City of Majestic Waterfalls”. After a two day rest in Cagayan de Oro, where we finally had the honor of meeting DG Fe “Bing” Juarez, and her dear sister Linda Deleste, we were brought here to Iligan where we were greeted warmly and enthusiastically by several members of each of the 7 clubs.

We met our host families over lunch at a restaurant called Gazpachos where we feasted on many local delicacies, including a team favorite, local tuna marinated in vinegar, citrus with thinly sliced onions (similar to ceviche). That evening we were hosted by RC Maria Cristina (named after the largest and most famous twin falls of Iligan). This club was unique in two ways, first that the meeting was held in a private home and second that it is an all-female club! We’ve been to a few clubs that are all-male, but as an all-female team we were glad to see the reverse existed also. Our host and everyone’s grandma, “Tita Dory” treated us to yet another amazing feast. After dinner and the official meeting, she wowed us all with amazing singing. That was just the start of it…she and her Dance Instructor (or “DI” as commonly referred to) danced an amazing tango before opening the floor to us uncoordinated Americans. We have vowed to take singing and dancing lessons upon our return to the US!

One of the highlights of the week was getting to visit some of the breathtaking falls this city is known for. The Tinago Falls was so beautiful it is hard to describe in words, and the pictures we took do not do it justice. The powerful falls cascade into a placid lagoon, which is surrounded by cliffs and lush green landscape. The water was cool and clear and refreshing. It was the middle of the week so it wasn’t very busy with visitors, so save for a handful of local boys, we practically had the falls to ourselves. We attempted to climb the slippery rocks to jump off, but after feeble attempts, all but our most adventurous of the team, Leigh, stayed safely in the water. Leigh’s climbing spirit and thirst for physical activity was satiated as she maneuvered cautiously but expertly up the rocky side of the falls much to the awe and admiration of all who witnessed. We have a video to share of her jumping off the cliff into the lagoon!

The aforementioned Maria Cristina falls generates the hydroelectric power for much of Mindanao and we were fortunate not only to visit the falls, but also the hydroelectric plant which harnesses the power of the falls. The design of the plant is truly ingenious. The 7 plants are built in a decending fasion, so that the water used by the first plant at the top flows to the 2nd one and so on, reusing the same water 7 times to produce electricity for the region. The site is built on a naturally occurring slope so gravity is the driving force. In one area of the plant, where Agus IV is located, the landscape flattens out. Nothing if not resourceful, the engineers dug deep and installed a plant underground so they could still harness the natural force of gravity to generate velocity of the inflowing water.

Sunday, April 25, 2010

Thursday April 8th
Host Club: RC Cotabato East

Another day, another adventure....starting with breakfast. The day’s first meal has been considerably different than what each of us is accustomed to at home. This team member, who usually starts her day with copious amounts of coffee and a mid-morning smoothie is quickly growing fond of hearty Philippino breakfasts! Today it was rice and sweet chorizo with a fried egg, mango, papaya and fresh guava! Crunchy, bright, not too sweet…almost like a not-quite-ripe pear, only made better by a modest sprinkle (or generous dip, depending on personal preference) of course ground salt. Truly a delight to the taste buds!

The days outing was to be hosted by Cotabato East, of which Charlie, host of TL Lisa, is the President. Charlie has been so gracious in meeting us each day to say good morning send us off with our host club for the day before going off to a busy day’s work at ChinaBank, that it was a nice treat that he was able to join us today! We met at the office of the water department were we were welcomed by YuBeng and Congressman Diggs, who were to accompany us to the Water Treatment Plant. But first we took a drive to visit a special project of Congressman Diggs. We drove though past miles of rice fields, only half of which are planted currently, due to the lack of rain. Amongst the fields of rolling green we came upon a structure that was only recognizable as a mosque beacuase of the partial spires completed. Usually so ornate and palatial, this mosque-under construction was a massive display of concrete and steel. Upon its completion (scheduled ambitiously for August of this year) this mosque will be the largest in all of the Philippines. A ways beyond the mosque in an area not yet developed adjacent to the sea, Congressman Diggs has plans to construct a golf course and resort as a means of economic development for the region.

Next stop…the Water Treatment Plant which is a RI project with RC Cotabato East and a RC in Taiwan started in 2001 and supplies water throughout Cotabato City. The process of filtration at this plant was at the same time simple and complex. The plant currently process river water at a rate of 150 liters/second. In the first step, sediment is removed with the good old fashioned gravity method. Next, the water goes through a sand filtration and is then followed by a chlorination sanitization. The whole process takes 3 hours. A new microfiber machine, once in operation, has the potential to increase the rate from 150 to 400L per second.

Boodle Fight Lunch
When we saw this on the schedule we weren’t quite sure to expect. We were pleasantly and messily surprised….but we had one more project to visit first, and this was a fun one because we got to be involved! Many clubs here participate in re-forestation programs. Over the years, much of the natural forests have been lost to illegal harvesting. There is a district-wide if not island-wide concern over this issue and the effect that the lack of trees has on watershed, siltation, and microclimate. They had a special treat for us…we each had the opportunity to plant our own seedling there at the watershed. We hope we get to come back and see how it’s grown!

We walked up to a covered picnic area where a long banquet table was covered with giant banana leaves…the Boodle Lunch. Still not sure what to expect, we were instructed to wash up thoroughly. We were invited to each take a place, standing, at the table. The banana leaves were removed with a flourish, revealing a feast to the eyes and to the palate…traditional dishes of pancit, adobo, local langostine, whole fish prepared with lemongrass and ginger and vegetables, a delicious cold salad of hardboiled egg and mango, and of course….rice. Our eyes grew big and our stomached growled as we searched hungrily for a spoon and fork... and there was the catch! The Boodle Fight Lunch is fashioned after how the Philippino Army ate when rations were low…soldiers would line up at the mess table while baskets of rice were poured out on the table and whatever protein could be found…usually sardines…topped it off. Since it was typically the main if not only meal the soldiers would have in a day, they had to fight—literally—for their food! The table would get so crowded we were told that they would stand to sideways, eating with only one hand so more could fit. Our lunch, even though we did eat with our hands, was much more civilized, of course, as we are dainty ladies! (although you may see pictures of messy hands and faces that may prove otherwise!)

After lunch and a thorough hosing off, we went to our host families to rest before meeting again in the evening for the club meeting, also held at Kitoks. We were delighted that YuBeng and Congressman Diggs attended dinner, as well as Romy Millan, an amazing man and Rotarian, who we look forward to seeing each day and hearing his stories and history. Another wonderful feast awaited us. We gave our presentation which we are becoming a bit more comfortable at and President Charlie shared with us a presentation of the many projects they are involved in.

A very long but very incredible day...and we've really only just begun!

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Correction: ARMM

Thanks to Jo & Joy for catching our goof:

The ARMM refers to the Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao, not Manila as previously stated.

We apologize for the mix up!

Saturday, April 10, 2010

Wednesday April 7th: RC Cotabato Mother Club

Lourdes Grotto
Our first project visit of the day was to the Lourdes Grotto, a property developed by Fr. Pommier, an Oblate priest from Minnesota. The area was enrobed in so much green! Trees included palm, coconut, mango and other tropical giants. Hidden among these were giants of another sort: a virtual Jurassic Park of hand-structured dinosaurs roamed the land and gave even the best real zoos in the US a run for their money. As we toured the park we came across Stations of the Cross, practically life-sized, that were carved (very much in a southwestern style) by Father Pommier. At the past week’s Holy Friday celebration we were told some 2300 people came and walked the stations. Here at the park were several Rotary projects, including a children’s park which had what you’d expect a children’s park to have: swings, slide, sandbox…but also had so much more: a pond with fish you could feed and paddle boat around, a picnic area, and a large amphitheater-style stage where live performances are held on the weekends. We were still getting accustomed to the heat and humidity, but still enjoyed walking the property and up & down several flights of stairs in a feeble attempt to work of f the feasts we consumed in the first couple days.

Tourism Council at City Hall
We returned to People’s Palace for a visit to the Tourism Council, run by the Mayors wife. Shortly after arriving, the city experienced a brown-out, so while our official presentation was delayed, we had an opportunity to visit with the staff and got the unofficial, but probably more helpful, version from a bright young lady named Norianne. The all volunteer council represents a variety of local businesses affected by tourism. Before too long, the lights came back on and we were able to see the prepared presentation.

Lunch at Fiesta Cotabato
We have been treated like royalty in our days here, and meal time is certainly no exception. Today Rotarian John hosted us to a beautiful lunch at a restaurant in town. We feasted on crispy pata (pork leg) sweet and sour, pancit, and of course white rice. Plates of sweet juicy mango, pineapple, and a fruit salad dressed in sweetened condensed milk. Delicious! Just as we thought it would soon be time to go, one of the waiters rushed in intently carrying a plastic bag with two square containers. We were summoned back to the table…they had a treat for us. Curious, adventurous, always anxious to taste a new delicacy, we had no idea what we were in for…
Once the lid on the container was cracked it was undeniable…the infamous…the much anticipated (and often feared)…durian fruit! While there was some familiarity of this local delicacy among the team., no amount of research or programs on the Travel Channel could appropriately prepare us for the experience of the aroma….this Team Member is unsure how exactly to describe it except to say that nature is amazing in developing survival methods to ward of predators. For the durian fruit, it is its smell. A smell which as we have been told, causes some hotels and local airlines to prohibit it from being brought aboard. A smell which not just causes a turn of the nose but for some, a turn of the stomach. Now, let it be known that it is not just these American travelers that have an aversion to this unique fruit. Here locally, the question of “do you like durian?” is as common here as “red or green?” is in New Mexico. A casual survey has resulted in about 50/50….and either way the answer is emphatic. People absolutely love it or they absolutely do not.

Our willingness to truly immerse ourselves in the culture helped work through the smell and curiously, cautiously offer our plated up for a taste. Our dear hosts were excited to share this experience with us. And an experience it was! Let us just say it is an experience we are grateful we participated in, but not one we look forward to experiencing again. (Barry, our young host, guide, friend and driver—made us ride in a different car after learning that we consumed durian! From now on, we’ll stick with other local delicacies…sweet fruit like the mango, mango stein, lazones, pineapple….mmmmmm………


Center for Handicapped
If nothing else, Rotarians are known for their service among self. District 3870 seems especially dedicated to this mission. We have had the opportunity to visit several Club Projects. One of the first and most memorable for this Team Member was the visit to the Center for the Handicapped in Cotabato City, sponsored by the Mother Club. The Center was developed to assist local deaf, hearing impaired and developmentally disabled children with the goal of rehabilitation and integration into the community. This center allows for many of these Cotabato youth to have access to opportunities. They are taught to communicate in Sign Language (ASL) and lip read. They are offered instruction in computers and other technical and vocational training and the arts. RC Cotabato has contributed much to this organization, and the instructors and students expressed their gratitude by preparing a short program for us. It was at the same time delightful and touching to see the joy on the faces of these children, and the dedication of the instructors. (A side note: Anita’s host family in Cotabato owns and runs a chain of successful restaurants--Kitoks Liston Manuk. The Yu Ekeys have for several years worked in collaboration with the Center and employed several of their students)

Notre Dame University
Education is a priority and very highly valued here, and this was apparent in the high level of degrees held, and the pride graduates have in their alma maters. The Assistant District Governor, Linda Zurita, is not only a graduate of Notre Dame of Cotabato, but was employed there for 20+ years. Team Member Kim, who is the recruitment coordinator for NMSU was interested in this vocational visit, (which for those of you that don’t know, Vocational Visits are a key component to the GSE Program, as they provide a way for us young professionals to gain a new perspective in our respective fields and to share best practices with our Philippino counterparts)

Notre Dame in Cotabato City, a Catholic University has been around for 61 years, and offer programs in nursing, engineering, arts and science and business accounting. They currently enroll approximately 4500 students and are looking to start offering online classes.

Club Meeting Rotary Cotabato
After a couple hours rest we attended the club meeting held at the Kitoks Litson Manok, one of the restaurants in the chain that Anita’s host family, the Yu Ekeys own and run. Like meals previous, this one was beautiful and abundant. They had prepared a lechon, which we considered such a special treat! The young pig was roasted whole, slowly and over low heat until the skin became so crispy that you had to crack it with a knife to get to the juicy rich meat waiting inside. There was different opinions which part was the tastiest—the rib, the leg, the loin….but everyone agreed that the crispy skin was the best part! After dinner and fellowship and a bevy of photographs, we were presented with a
Beautiful gift wrapped exquisitely in dyed fibrous paper and a bow of hand crafted ribbon. The package itself was a work of art, but nestled inside were brightly colored fabrics…called a malong, this is a traditional piece used by Muslims and can be used in many different ways.

Tuesday April 6, RC Cotabato South

Cotabato Supreme Court
We started the day meeting with our hosts and taking a drive into Cotabato City for a Vocational Visit to the Supreme Court, where we witnessed Rotarian Bansawan Ibram presiding over the hearing. The hearing was held in English, but our ears were not yet acustomed to the inflections of the local dialect. (we think the case involved something about Cebu Air, and since the opposing council was absent, the case was dismissed). After a series of photographs (one mores! one mores!) we moved on to our next stop, to meet the city Mayor.

People's Palace
When he took his seat in office, Mayor Muslimin Sema was determined to create transparency and improve relations with his constituents, and therefore created the "People's Palace" which as you will see in the picture is very much palace-like construction. He as literally created transparency, in that all offices are open and visible through floor to ceiling glass. The impressive stairwell leads up to the Mayor's office where we were welcomed warmly and briefed on his projects, challenges and plans for economic development. We had coffee and snacks (Typically the coffee is Nestle 3-in-1, a powdered instant coffee + sugar + creamer. This team—or at least this team member--will soon be buying stock in and importing, it’s so good! Snacks throughout the day we soon learned was to be the norm... Lots of snacks and coffee throughout the day and merienda, a late day light meal --around 3-4pm. So do not be surprised upon our return as slightly "softer" versions of how you last saw us! ;) We have tried so much new and amazing food, we will have to dedicate a post strictly to cuisine and local delicacies...let us just say that yes, there has been durien and bolut involved! More on that later....
The offices in City Hall were much like you would expect in most places, with an office of assessors, HR, public works, taxes, etc...

It was here at the Mayor’s office that Anita met her "cousin"... woman name Adela Bringas who is from the same area in Luzon as Anita's grandfather...Ilokano, which as we understand refers to the dialect spoken in the region from which they are from. They had a reunion complete with sharing pictures and telling stories and hugs. While Bringas is uncommon in the states, the surname is well known here!

Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao (ARMM)
Following the visit to City Hall, we were given the privilege of a presentation by the Director of ARRM, Mr. Dumagay. There are multiple acts in the Philippino Constitution that designate this conflict-free zone, with the goal of peace through education, discussion and economic development and sustainability. They utilize a branch structure and collaborate with local and regional stakeholders to achieve the aforementioned goals. While the ongoing tension among groups is palpable, in no way have we felt our safety and security threatened. Our hosts make every effort to ensure we are not in harm’s way.

Malong Weavers
Our next visit was much lighter...visited the traditional weavers of the area. Fast hands glided the shuttle back and forth so quickly you could barely see it happen if it were not for the colorful bands of silken fabric grow broader with each pass. Patterns are as different as the regions from which they come…some designs tell stories, while others the “dream weavers” ensure sweet and pleasant dreams. We were welcomed by the exotic sounds of brass drums, kulingtong, traditional instruments reminiscent of that heard in Indonesia. The drums are played by women and are used in celebrations festivals. They can also used for courtship by young couples. We then were presented the Sagayan Dance. Performed by young boys dressed in colorful costumes, this was the dance of the Warrior.

Rotary Club Meeting of Cotabato South
After a couple hours of rest we attended our first Club Meeting. Again, we were welcomed with open arms and warm smiles. Upon arrival, we were each presented with something conceptually resembled a Hawaiian lei though this was hand-made with brightly colored ribbon with a round medallion of ribbon at the bottom. We were fortunate that our visit coincided with the clubs monthly “Ladie’s Night” which was when the all-male members’ wives the RotariAnns accompanied their husbands for the meeting. A bountiful feast awaited us…rice, of course, soup, pancit, sweet & sour, and more. Fresh fruit sweeter than you could ever imagine. (And as silly as this sounds, really, really good Coke in the bottle, served with a straw to everyone. Apparently the Coke is made with real sugar instead of corn syrup so somehow it tastes more Coke-y.)
We were treated like celebrities at this and all club meetings to follow. We gave our first presentation, and though we were tired and probably a little nervous, it turned out well. Following the gong officially marking the meetings adjournment, the fellowship that followed included one of the most popular Philippino past-times…singing!

While the team, or at least this team member, would normally be up for an evening of merriment it had been a long night and we said our good-nights and prepared for the adventures that awaited us the next day.

Friday, April 9, 2010

Just beginning to breathe...

Hello Friends and Family! We have been extremely busy and struggling with internet so have done a terrible job of keeping the blog updated. We have been met by warm and generous people everywhere we have gone so far. We have spent the first week in Cotabato City and have all had many firsts including eating the durian fruit. Today is our first rest day and I think we are all getting some exercise and catching up on email and trying to figure out how we will fit all of the beautiful gifts we have received so far. I cannot express how generous everyone is with their homes, their time, and their businesses. More to come soon!
Our time in Cotabato is quickly coming to an end.

It is Saturday 10th here already (we are 14 hours ahead of NM) and we have a free day today--a chance to catch up on calls and emails to our friends and family back home, to do laundry, to rest (this is key!) and to gather our things and pack in preparation to depart tomorrow for new adventures. The week has been a whirlwind of activity...each day bringing new experiences so many it's difficult to absorb it all. We have been not only welcomed here by Cotabatenos, but embraced by them. We came expecting to meet hosts and fellow Rotarians--that's what happens on exchange programs, right? But we are leaving Cotabato with so much more...with extended families and new friends. It's hard to believe it's only been a week since we arrived.

Anyone that has traveled abroad can attest to the fact that no words, no matter how eloquent...and photos, no matter how high resolution---can ever truly depict what you experience first-hand. The best we can do is show snapshots of our days here, and encourage you to welcome any opportunity that comes to you to experience a world so different, yet so much alike your own. Look for posts soon to come highlighting the week...

In the meantime, we, the Rotary GSE Team from District 5520, would like to extend our thanks and gratitude to Rotary International, to our home district 5520, to our gracious hosts in District 3870, their respective DGs & GSE coordinators, and to our sponsoring clubs of RC Albuquerque, RC Alamogordo, and RC Taos Milagro, and to our families and friends and businesses that support us. People kept telling us we were in for an experience of a lifetime. opo, yes, that it certainly true. So to all that made this possible....
Maraming, maraming salamat po!
Thank you so very, very much!